1. Begin by reinforcing each padeye location with 4 layers of  6 oz glass cut into 1.5" x 2" patches - wet the glass out first and place it on the underside of the deck everywhere that you intend to place the fitting.

2. Next cut a 3/32" x 3/4" slot in your deck and seal the edges well with epoxy or varnish. If you wish you may cut an oversized slot (1/4" x 1") first - fill this with thickened epoxy, let cure, and then cut the 3/32" x 3/4" slot in the center of the cured epoxy. Note: if you choose to use an oversized slot, then perform step 1. after  the thickened epoxy has cured and before cutting the 3/32" slot.

3. Begin with at least 3" of 3/4" polypropylene webbing.

  Fold the webbing in half and .........

4.   ...place it between two smooth hard surfaces - in this case I have used HDPE but metal or hardwood will work as well.  Leave the cut ends exposed by 1/2".

5. Use a lighter to begin melting the cut ends of the webbing.

 Hold the fixture upright while the webbing melts ........

6. Once the webbing begins to flow out onto the surface of  the HDPE you must ....

blow the flame out and let the melted webbing cool. It is important that you do not let the webbing melt so much that the flange is too thin. Blow it out immediately after it starts to flow out onto the block.

 The webbing with a melted crown - it now has a flat surface under the cap.

7. Place a bead of caulking under the cap, thread the webbing through the 3/32" x 3/4" slot, and pull it up tight to the deck.

 A view from under the deck showing an installed padeye bead - there's
nothing's there to snag gear or knees and it is completely watertight.

Copyright 2003